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![]() International Association of Astronomical Artists Colorado Plateau Workshop June 2008 Capitol Reef & Bryce National Parks, Utah Chronicled by Kara Szathmáry FIAAA
Day One - Scouting in Capital Reef National Park - June 2, 2008, Monday
Morning came early in the Hole-in-the-Rock compound with a bright sun shining through
three widows directly above Judy and my bed, which reflected off the opposite wall
directly onto us as if under the lights of an operating room. Judy cannot sleep once light
lands onto her eye lids. So while she dressed and readied for the day, I stepped onto the
balcony to gander a look at our facilities and rattlesnake strewn landscape. Slot Canyon
Inn indeed has very luxurious accommodations and is nestled on a beautiful private 160
acre setting of canyons, cliffs, streams and enormous rock boulders, some as huge as the
historic and beautiful restored 1890's Isaac Riddle Cabin just behind the Inn and just
below a dirt road that follows the route used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid -
the Hole-in-the-Wall Gang. It sits couple of hundred feet off towards the canyon cliffs on
a hill rise above the Inn, and currently the home this week to Sean Brady, Paul Hoffman
and John Kauffman. Rumor has it that Amanda Blake aka Miss Kitty of Gunsmoke, once
lived in the building after she retired from acting.
During breakfast Erika McGinnis and Sandon arrived from their motel in the town of
Escalante. What a pleasure it was to meet Erika for the first time and to thank her
personally for introducing her attorney of Intellectual Property to the IAAA. Her husband
Sandon who had joined Erika's travels to the region is a jazz musician wanting to take
advantage of biking in the area while she is off doing her Mars analogue research and art
renderings in the territory.
After breakfast, nine of us piled into the van with Jon Ramer as our chauffer and guide
and headed off northeastwards towards Capital Reef National Park along highway #12.
From Slot Canyon Inn we were some five miles west of the town of Escalante where we
stopped to gas up, buy some sandwich meats, drinks and what not orange snacks for the
drive and later in the day.
From there we headed off on an eighty mile trek winded our way along HWY #12
through Dixie National Forest which still had visible snow in the shallows at the foot of
the forests filled with aspen, cedar and ponderosa pines. At times the route would snake
its way into the sage grass and dwarf cedar bush desert of Grand Staircase and the
Escalante National Monument territory. We saw bold vistas stretching out above the
valleys to the east, as far as the Kaiparowitz Plateau to the south and below the Aquarius
Plateau to the north on route through Boulder UT. Before getting to Capital Reef we
cleared passes some 9,400 feet along the Boulder Creek Mountains before descending to
7,000 feet to 6,580 feet into the town of Torrey UT, the gateway to and some three miles
from Capital Reef.
As we entered the park, within a mile to Twin Rocks, a further descent to 5,500 feet
followed as we approached Chimney Rock and Panorama Point. The colors (red, ocher,
grays, and magenta) and textures of the cathedral shaped rocks and escarpments were
highlighted as if temples of the sun leading into the National Park.
At the rock formation called the Castle we arrived at the visitors centre, but long after
several frequent stops for photographic shots of Mars-like terrain along the way.
Climbing in and out of the van into the dry desert air began to become exhausting in and
of itself. We did however take advantage of a quick but careful tour of the souvenir shop.
We researched, examined and purchased maps, looked at books of the territory, including
outlaws and lawmen of the days of old, then collectively decided to drive down the center
of the park to the Golden Throne; but first, after completing a very lengthy scouting
expedition thus far we'd better have some lunch. We settled into a very green park on the
Fremont River just before the Fruita Campgrounds. Half hour later we stopped at
campgrounds leaving Judy with the van while the rest of us decided to go off hiking
along the Cahab Trail that would wind upwards 400+ feet in altitude before veering off
onto the Frying Pan Trail at the edge of the vertical cliffs that would rise another 600 feet
to the cerulean blue sky. The view from up there of the Fremont River valley and
onwards south to Capital Gorge was an outrageously expressive visual treat of the desert
mountainous domain of the terrain. At this altitude one barely sweats, as one climbs
amongst the rocks, dry mud and desert cactus, as it quickly evaporates in the heat and dry
desert air.
The scouting expedition is usually a good way to start every workshop as it allows
everyone to get to know each other, recognize their grunting sounds when extraordinary
landscape and vista terrain appears and become familiar to the leading utterances of
"whoa" coming from spell bound artist colleagues. Throughout the afternoon, numerous
stops were made with photographic opportunities galore.
The geology of Capital Reef is a giant, sinuous wrinkle in the Earth's crust stretching
some 100 miles across south-central Utah. This impressive buckling of rock was created
65 million years ago by the same tremendous forces that later uplifted the Colorado
Plateau and is today referred to as the Waterpocket Fold. The National Park preserves the
fold and its spectacular, eroded jumble of colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires,
stark monoliths, twisting canyons and graceful arches. It also has the free-flowing
Fremont River with its cottonwoods, willows, and ash which creates a fresh ribbon of
green and dotted wildflowers against the big desert sky and just a few hundred yards
away the harsh, sparser environment of the desert itself. It is cactus, sage brush, jay,
lizard, jackrabbit, juniper, columbine, and deer. As the literature says it is a place where
Indians hunted and farmed for more than a thousand years and, later, where Mormon
pioneers settled. It is the inspiration of poets, artists, photographers, and those who seek
only to recreate themselves in the solitude and slender of its vastness.
The Scenic Drive follows south along the west face of the fold and leads into Grand
Wash and Capital Gorge, two deep, twisting, water carved, and sheer-walled canyons.
Along the Scenic Drive are trails that led to overlooks, remote canyons, natural arches,
and slick rock wilderness. The entire day was spent scouting out locations where we
collectively felt inspired to want to return to in order to paint, and draw on location for
our Mars inspired renditions. After we returned to Slot Canyon Inn, about 6:30 PM, Dan
Durda had greeted us with his arrival. His seven and a half our drive from Boulder CO
didn't include Mikey Carroll, his son Andrew nor Anil Rao. They were expected the next
day as both Mikey and Anil had unexpected car problems which has delayed their arrival.
While the artists milled about socializing, exchanged stories and the recollections of their
favorite sites of the day, consuming beer and orange circus peanuts, cheesies and dorito
chips, Judy and Ursa went off to Escalante with an order for five pizzas for supper. Once
they returned, we resumed with the supper and discussion well into the evening darkness.
Around 10 PM the lights outside the Inn went off and allowed the stars to blaze in their
majestic glory in the sky. Aldo had brought his green laser pointer which was a fun tool
to point out constellations in a moonless desert sky. Jon later received a phone call from
Mikey who related that they were some one hour away from arriving. Cool! Now we
would at last be all finally together.
We decided at this point to go up and check out the cabin on the hill where Sean, Paul
and John were staying and the much darker balcony. From their porch we would have a
better option to see more of the sky plus laugh and talk without bothering other guests at
the Inn particularly our hosts and family members downstairs. Ursa and Jon repeatedly
exchanged and tested one another with one-liners of various Star Wars films. Ursa was
quite good with her alien voice impersonations and words while Jon had great knowledge
of vast phrases as well as military spacecrafts as did Aldo of both Star Wars science
fiction and reality based future designs. Throughout the constant chatter and laughter and
laser pointing into the eastern sky, the splendid Milky Way river-wash of stars rose
majestically higher and higher into the dark star-studded sky. This view also included a
vantage point of seeing down to the highway for on coming headlights from Escalante
should the balance of our motley crew final arrive. Unfortunately pour moi, the stepping
in and out of the van and the hiking of mountainous trails of the day activities had finally
taken its toll on me as I bit good night to my artist comrades 'til morning.
Next: Day 2
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